If
you're like most people, buying a home on Long Island is the biggest
investment you'll ever make.
Annual mortgage, taxes and insurance costs can range
from 25% to 40% of your gross annual income.
Read, talk to family, friends and real estate
professionals. You'll be glad you took the time to
understand the process.
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Looking for a
home without being pre-approved.
Pre-approval and
pre-qualification are two different things. During
the pre-qualification process, a loan officer asks you
a few questions, then hands you a "pre-qual" letter.
The pre-approval process is much more thorough.
During the pre-approval process, the mortgage company
does virtually all the work associated with obtaining
full-approval. Since there is no property yet
identified to purchase, however, an appraisal and
title search aren't conducted.
Most good Realtors
will not show you homes until you are pre-qualified.
They don't want to waste your, their, or the seller's
time.
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Making verbal
(oral) agreements!
If an agent
tries to make you sign a written document that is
contrary to their verbal commitments, don't do it!
For example, if the agent says the washer will come
with the home, but the contract says it will not--the
written contract will override the verbal contract.
In fact, written contracts almost always override
verbal contracts. When buying or selling real estate,
abide by this maxim: Get it in writing!
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Choosing a lender
because they have the lowest rate. Not getting a
written good-faith estimate.
While rate is
important, you have to consider the overall cost of
your loan. Pay close attention to the APR, loan fees,
discount and origination points. Some lenders include
discount and origination points in their quoted
points. Other lenders may only quote discount points,
when in fact there is an additional origination point
(or fraction of a point).
This difference in the way points are sometime quoted
is important to you. One lender will quote all points,
while another lender may disclose an extra point, or
fraction thereof, at a later time--an unwelcome
surprise.
Within 3 working days after receipt of your completed
loan application, your mortgage company is required to
provide you with a written good-faith estimate (GFE)
of closing costs. You may want to consider requesting
a GFE from a few lenders before submitting your
application. With a few GFEs to compare, you can get
a feel for which lenders are more thorough, and you
can educate yourself regarding the costs associated
with your transaction. The GFE with the highest costs
may not indicate that a particular lender is more
expensive than another--in fact, they may be more
diligent in itemizing all fees.
You must also feel comfortable that the loan officer
you are dealing with is committed to your best
interests and will deliver what they promise.
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Choosing a lender
because they are recommended by your Realtor®.
Your Realtor is
not a financial expert. He or she may not know which
loan is best for you. Your Realtor®
gets a commission only when your transaction closes.
As a result, the Realtor®
may refer you to a lender who will close your loan,
but who may not have the best rates or fees. Also,
many Realtors®
refer you to one of their friends in the loan
business--who also may not have the best rates or
fees. Although most Realtors®
are professional and concerned about your best
interests, you should do your own homework.
We recommend shopping for a loan with at least three
mortgage companies before you make a decision. There
are countless stories of consumers who ended up paying
higher rates, or got a loan that wasn't right for
them, because they blindly followed their Realtor's®
advice.
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Not getting a
rate lock in writing.
When a mortgage
company tells you they have locked your rate, get a
written statement detailing the interest rate, the
length of the rate lock, and other particulars about
the program.
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Using a dual
agent (an agent who represents the buyer and seller in
the same transaction).
Buyers and
sellers have opposing interests. Sellers want to
receive the highest price, buyers want to pay the
lowest price. In most situations, dual agents cannot
be fair to both buyer and seller. Since the seller
usually pays the commission, the dual agent may
negotiate harder for the seller than for the buyer.
If you are a buyer, it is usually better to have your
own agent represent you.
The only time you should consider using a dual agent,
is when you can get a price break (usually resulting
from the dual agent lowering their commission). In
that case, proceed cautiously and do your homework!
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Buying a home
without professional inspections. Taking the seller's
word that repairs have been made.
Unless you're
buying a new home with warranties on most equipment,
it is highly recommended that you get property, roof
and termite inspections. These reports will give you
a better picture of what you're buying. Inspection
reports are great negotiating tools when it comes to
asking the seller to make repairs. If a professional
home inspector states that certain repairs need to be
made, the seller is more likely to agree to making
them.
If the seller agrees to make repairs, have your
inspector verify the completed work prior to close of
escrow. Do not assume that everything will be done as
promised.
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Not shopping for
home insurance until you are ready to close.
Start shopping
for insurance as soon as you have an accepted offer.
Many buyers wait until the last minute to get
insurance and find they have no time left to shop
around.
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Signing documents
without reading them.
Do not sign
documents in a hurry. As soon as possible, review the
documents you'll be signing at close of
escrow--including a copy of all loan documents. This
way, you can review them and get your questions
answered in a timely manner. Do not expect to read
all the documents during the closing. There is rarely
enough time to do that.
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Making moving plans that don't work.
You expect to move out of your current residence on
Friday and into your new residence over the weekend.
Also on Friday, your lease terminates and the movers
are scheduled to appear.
Friday morning arrives: bags packed, boxes stacked,
children under arm and the dog on a leash; you're
sitting on your front door stoop awaiting the arrival
of the movers.
Your phone rings. Your loan closing is delayed until
the following Tuesday. The new tenants turn into your
driveway with a weighted-down U-Haul and the movers
pull up across the street.
You ask yourself, "Where's the nearest Motel 6 and
storage facility? How much will the movers charge for
an extra trip? Can we afford it?"
How can you avoid such a disaster? Cancel your lease
and ask the movers to show up five to seven days after
you anticipate closing your transaction. Consider the
extra expense an insurance policy. You're buying
peace of mind--and protecting yourself from expensive
delays.
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Refinancing with
your current lender without shopping around.
Your current
lender may not have the best rates and programs.
Believing it's easier to work with your current lender
is a common misconception. In most cases, they'll
require the same documentation as other lenders and
mortgage brokers. This is because most loans are sold
on the secondary market and have to be approved
independently. Even if you've been good at making
payments to your existing lender, they'll still have
to process the verifications all over again.
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Not doing a
break-even analysis.
Determine the
total transaction costs and how much you'll save each
month by lowering your monthly mortgage payment.
Divide the transaction costs by the monthly savings
to determine the number of months you'll have to stay
in the property to recoup your refinancing costs.
For example, if the costs of refinancing total $2000,
and you save $50 per month, you break-even in
2000/50 = 40 months. In this case, you should only
refinance if you plan to stay in the home for at least
40 months.
Note: The above example is suited to comparing
two similar loans when the intent is to lower your
monthly payment and recoup transaction costs
relatively quickly. Other refinancing transactions
require different kinds of analyses which are beyond
the scope of this document. Other types of
refinancing transactions include exchanging a fixed
rate for an ARM, or a 30 year mortgage for a 15 year
mortgage.
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Not getting a
written good-faith estimate of closing costs.
Within 3 working
days after receipt of your completed loan application,
your mortgage company is required to provide you with
a written good-faith estimate of closing costs.
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Paying for a home
appraisal when you think the appraised value may be
too low.
Have the
appraisal company conduct a Desktop/drive-by appraisal
and provide you with a range of possible values. Your
mortgage company can ask an appraiser to do this for
you.
Do not waste your money on a complete appraisal if you
believe the home is unreasonably priced.
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Using the county
tax assessor's value as the market value of your home.
Mortgage
companies do not use the county tax assessor's value
to help determine if they'll originate your loan.
They, like real estate agents, usually use the sales
comparison approach (formerly known as the market data
comparison approach).
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Signing documents
without reading them.
Do not sign
documents in a hurry. As soon as possible, review the
documents you'll be signing at close of
escrow--including a copy of all loan documents. This
way, you can review them and get your questions
answered in a timely manner. Do not expect to read
all the documents during the closing. There is rarely
enough time to do that.
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Not providing
your mortgage company with documents in a timely
manner.
When your
mortgage company asks you for additional
paperwork--get cracking! They're trying to get you
approved! If you don't quickly respond to your
broker's requests, you could end up paying higher
rates should your rate lock expire.
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Not getting a
rate lock in writing.
When a mortgage
company tells you they've locked your rate, get a
written statement detailing the interest rate, the
length of the rate lock, and other particulars about
the program.
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Drawing against
your home equity credit line before you refinance your
first mortgage.
Many lenders
have "cash-out" seasoning requirements. If you draw
against your credit line for anything other than home
improvements, they'll consider your first mortgage
refinance transaction a "cash-out" refinance. This
creates stricter lending requirements and can, in some
cases, break your deal!
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Getting a second
mortgage before you refinance your first mortgage.
Many mortgage
companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the
sum of the first and second loans) when you are
refinancing only your first loan. If you plan on
refinancing your first loan, check with your mortgage
company to see if having a second loan will cause your
refinance to be turned down.
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Not checking to
see if your credit line has a pre-payment penalty
clause.
If you are
getting a "NO FEE" credit line, chances are it has a
pre-payment penalty clause. This can be very
important (and expensive) if you are planning to sell
or refinance your home in the next three to five
years.
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Getting too large
a credit line.
When you get too
large a credit line, you can be turned down for other
loans. Some lenders calculate your credit line
payments based upon the available credit, even when
your credit line has a zero balance. Having a large
credit line indicates a large potential payment, which
makes it difficult to qualify for loans.
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Not understanding
the difference between an equity loan and a credit
line.
An equity loan
is closed--i.e., you get all your money up front, then
make payments on that fixed loan amount until the loan
is paid. An equity credit line is open--i.e., you can
get an initial advance against the line, then reuse
the line as often as you want during the period the
line is open. Most credit lines are accessed through
a checkbook or a credit card. Credit line payments
are based upon the outstanding balance.
Use an equity loan when you need all the money up
front--e.g. home improvements or debt consolidation.
Use a credit line if you have an ongoing need for
money or need the money for a future event--e.g., you
need to pay for your child's college tuition in three
years.
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Not checking the
lifecap on your equity line.
Many credit
lines have lifecaps of 18%. Be prepared to make high
interest payments if rates move upwards.
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Getting a credit
line from your local bank without shopping around.
Many consumers
get their credit line from the bank with which they
have their checking account. Shop around before
deciding to use your bank.
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Not getting a
good-faith estimate of closing costs.
Within three
working days after receipt of your completed loan
application, your mortgage company is required to
provide you with a written good-faith estimate of
closing costs.
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Assuming that the
interest on your home credit line/loan is tax
deductible.
In some
instances, the interest on your home credit line is
NOT tax deductible.
It is beyond the scope of this document to provide
tax advice or quote from the IRS code. Contact an
accountant or CPA to determine your particular
situation.
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Assuming a home
equity line is always cheaper than a car loan or a
credit card.
A credit
card at 6.9% can be cheaper than a credit line at 12%,
even after the tax deduction. To compare rates,
compare the effective rate of your credit line with
the rate on a credit card or auto loan.
Effective rate = rate * (1 - tax bracket)
Example: If the rate of the home equity credit line
is 12% and your tax bracket is 30%, your effective
rate is12% * (1 - 0.3) = 12% * 0.7 = 8.4%
If your credit card is higher than 8.4%, the credit
line is cheaper.
Besides the interest rate, you may also want to
compare monthly payments and other terms of the loan.
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Getting a home
equity credit line if you plan to refinance your first
mortgage in the near future.
Many mortgage
companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the
first loan plus the equity line/loan) even though they
are refinancing only the first mortgage. If you plan
on refinancing your first loan, check with your
mortgage company to determine if getting a second
line/loan will cause your refinance to be turned down.
Getting a home equity credit line to pay off your
credit cards if your spending is out of control!
When you pay off your credit cards with your credit
line, don't put your home on the line by charging large
amounts on your credit cards again! If you can't manage
the plastic, get rid of it
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